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Why British gardens suit pumpkins, squash and melons

It is easy to assume that melons, pumpkins and squash need a Mediterranean summer. In truth, many varieties thrive in a British garden given a warm, sheltered spot and a little patience. Pumpkins are simply a type of winter squash, and the same growing principles apply: rich soil, plenty of water, and as much sunshine as you can offer. Melons are the divas of the group, but even they can be grown successfully under glass or in a polytunnel, and some compact varieties will crop outdoors in a really warm, south-facing corner.

The reward is more than a decorative vegetable. Home-grown squash has a dense, sweet flesh that is far superior to most supermarket pumpkins. When roasted and puréed, it makes the most moist and fragrant autumn bakes, including the spiced pumpkin bread below. If you have ever found pumpkin loaf bland or soggy, the secret is starting with a dry-fleshed, well-ripened home-grown fruit.

Choosing varieties for our climate

Our growing season is shorter than in many pumpkin-growing regions, so variety choice matters. Look for winter squash and pumpkins that mature in 90 to 110 days. Small-fruited types ripen more reliably than giant exhibition varieties, and their flesh is usually sweeter and less watery. For melons, choose early-maturing cultivars and grow them under cover if possible.

• Pumpkins: ‘Small Sugar’, ‘Baby Bear’, ‘Jack Be Little’ and ‘Racer’ are excellent for eating.
• Winter squash: ‘Crown Prince’, ‘Uchiki Kuri’, ‘Harlequin’ and ‘Butternut’ all perform well in a good summer.
• Melons: ‘Charentais’, ‘Alvaro’ and ‘Emir’ are reliable under glass; ‘Minnesota Midget’ is worth trying outdoors in a very warm, sheltered bed.

Buy seed from a reputable supplier and sow with the aim of planting out after the last frost. In most parts of the UK, that means late May or early June.

Growing and harvesting your crop

Sow pumpkins and squash indoors in late April or early May, one seed per small pot, at a temperature of 20–25°C. Once the seedlings have two true leaves, pot them on. Harden them off gradually before planting into a sunny bed enriched with well-rotted manure or compost. Space trailing varieties at least 1 metre apart. Water deeply and regularly, aiming at the soil rather than the leaves, and feed with a high-potash tomato feed once flowers appear. Pinch out the growing tips if you want to encourage fruit to ripen rather than produce more foliage.

Melons need more cosseting. Sow under glass in late February or March. Plant into a greenhouse border, a large pot or a grow bag, and train the vines up a sturdy support. Remove side shoots and hand-pollinate female flowers by transferring pollen from a male flower with a soft brush. Keep humidity high while flowering, then reduce it as fruit swells to prevent mould. Stop the vine two leaves beyond each fruit.

Harvest pumpkins and squash when the skin is hard enough to resist a thumbnail and the stem has turned corky. Cut with a long stalk and leave the fruit in a sunny, airy spot or greenhouse for 10–14 days to cure. This hardens the skin and improves flavour. Store in a cool, dry room at around 10–15°C. Melons are ready when they smell sweet at the blossom end, the skin colour changes, and the fruit slips easily from the vine. Eat them promptly.

From roasted pumpkin to purée

To make pumpkin bread, you need a thick, dry purée. Cut a small pumpkin or squash in half, scoop out the seeds, and roast cut-side down on a baking tray at 180°C fan for 40–50 minutes, until the flesh is tender. Leave to cool, then scoop the flesh into a blender or food processor and blitz until smooth. Tip the purée into a fine sieve set over a bowl and leave to drain for 30 minutes. This removes excess water and gives a concentrated flavour.

You can use butternut, ‘Crown Prince’ or any sweet winter squash in exactly the same way. The purée freezes well in 200g portions, so you can bake this loaf long after the vines have been cleared.

Spiced pumpkin bread for autumn afternoons

This is a moist, warmly spiced loaf that fills the kitchen with the scent of cinnamon and nutmeg. It keeps beautifully for several days and is perfect with a cup of tea on a crisp October afternoon.

• 250g plain flour
• 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
• ½ tsp baking powder
• 1½ tsp ground cinnamon
• ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• ¼ tsp ground cloves
• ½ tsp fine salt
• 200g light brown sugar
• 2 large eggs
• 200g pumpkin or squash purée
• 120ml sunflower oil
• 60ml milk or buttermilk
• 1 tsp vanilla extract

Heat the oven to 170°C fan or 190°C conventional. Grease a 900g loaf tin and line it with greaseproof paper. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder, spices and salt. In another bowl, whisk the sugar, eggs, purée, oil, milk and vanilla until smooth. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and fold gently until just combined. Do not overmix.

Scrape the batter into the tin and bake for 55–65 minutes, until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. If the top darkens too quickly, cover it loosely with foil. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack.

Baking notes and variations

For a slightly lighter loaf, replace half the plain flour with wholemeal flour. Add 60g of chopped walnuts, raisins or dark chocolate chips if you like. The loaf is even better the next day, when the spices have mellowed. Store it wrapped in baking paper and foil at room temperature for up to four days, or freeze slices for up to three months. Toast a slice and spread it with salted butter, or serve it alongside a sharp apple chutney. Any leftover purée can be stirred into soups, risottos or a batch of scones. Growing your own pumpkins, squash and melons takes a little effort, but the taste of a home-baked spiced pumpkin loaf makes every autumn afternoon feel like a small celebration.